Felipe Camargo encadena Gancho Perfecto 9a+ en Margalef

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Felipe Camargo encadena Gancho Perfecto 9a+ en Margalef

El escalador brasileño Felipe Camargo encadenó recientemente el Gancho Perfecto 9a+ en el sector Racó de la Finestra, en la roca conglomerada de Margalef.

Para Felipe, es su cuarto noveno, en 2009 Felipe Camargo encadena Los Inconformistas 9a en Rodellar, en 2015 encadena Era Vella 9a en Margalef, en 2017 encadena Papichulo 9a+ en Oliana, y con Gancho Perfecto 9a+, su segundo 9a+.

Felicidades Felipinho!

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Gancho Perfecto 9a+ 🔴🔝✅ So stoked to finally climb this route!! After 1 month with the top of the route totally wet i had my chance!! What a battle with the weather it was…i tried to keep myself motivated , trained hard in the gym and climbed many days in the dry parts of the route!! So thankful that i got the window to finish it off 🙌🏼☀️! Another masterpiece by @chris_sharma 🙏🏻 thanks dude! Thanks @anghelobernalquintero for the hours and hours belaying me 🙏🏻💪🏼!! As for the grade…i feel like this one deserves the 9a+! Its just harder than all the 9as ive tried, harder than the other ones in the same wall and has a brutal finishing move…a lot of people seem to agree with that as well 🤷🏼‍♂️ but in the end it doesnt really matter…it will always be that one route i saw @adam.ondra climb in “Progression” 🎥! Photo: @anvacreative

A post shared by Felipe Camargo (@felipe.camargo) on Nov 29, 2018 at 10:44am PST

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Trying to be patient here, embrace the process and just learn whatever lesson this trip is trying to teach me….the last 2 quick draws of “Gancho Perfecto” 9a+ have been wet 💦for about a month now…during this time ive been training a lot in the gym but also staying focused and doing laps on the route till the wet part!! I feel really good on it and hope i get a window to try it before going back home 🙏🏻🙌🏼! Ter paciência e resiliência parece ser a lição que a “Gancho Perfecto” 12a BR ta tentando me ensinar nessa viagem! Faz cerca de um mês que o finalzinho da via está molhado e não tenho conseguido tentar pra valer…enquanto isso tenho treinado muito no ginásio e escalada muito na via até a parte molhada…muito difícil mentalmente, mas eu não vou desistir até o último dia da viagem…to me sentindo muito bem na via e rezando pra ter uma janela de alguns dias secos antes de 18 de dezembro 🙏🏻🙌🏼! 📽: @anghelobernalquintero

A post shared by Felipe Camargo (@felipe.camargo) on Nov 24, 2018 at 9:52am PST